Udaipur is a gorgeous city, and quite different from Jaipur. The area we are staying in is right on the edge of Lake Pichola, which is the lake with the floating palaces (currently hotels). It is mountainous, and the roads are all very narrow (built for donkeys, cows and people), but there is a lot of traffic on them - mostly small rickshaws and scooters. It is extremely touristy. Everything within walking distance of the hotel is there to cater to visitors, not locals. So, we have money changers, hotels, tailors, restaurants with European 'cafes' (sorry, I can't type accents on my iPhone), and most importantly... way overpriced gift and clothing shops. It wore a little thin after about the second day. Which is probably why everyone who finds out we are staying for a week is surprised. It seems nobody stays in Udaipur that long.
However, we have finally located the markets that local people shop in. The main one is called Bapu Bazaar. And that has helped a lot on the money supply, as well as confirming our guess that we were being ripped off when buying stuff in the tourist market. Today we went to my favorite store so far, called Khadi Emporium (or something like that). They sell only Khadi cloth, and with nice designs and nicer prices. Ravi found a tea store, so we'll be heading home with 2 kilos of tea. If we had room in the suitcases it would be more. And we've found at least one restaurant that has consistently good food (called Ambrai), right on the water's edge - so fabulous views too.
We went on one day trip - to Chittorgarh - so far, and are heading to Kumbalgarh and Ranakpur tomorrow. Chittorgarh was impressive. It sits way up a mountain, and you can see the villages down below from it's walls. It is a fort which was held repeatedly by the people of Mewar (think: Rajput warriors), even though they lost control of it 3 times. Each of those times the men rode out to certain death in battle (knowing all was lost, but fighting to their deaths), while the women burned themselves to death (rather than be taken). Ravi compares them to Klingons - I think of the Scots. Honour in death, and all that. In the end, they chose to settle on the banks of Lake Pichola. Udaipur is now the kingdom's home (there are still royalty here). The palace is the largest in all of Rajasthan (possibly all of India?).
There was a particularly awesome photo of Chittorgarh that I had seen on Pinterest that made it look like a piece of paradise (I didn't know it was Chittorgarh until I researched it and was thrilled to know we'd be able to visit it). It did feel a bit like that - or, rather, it is possible to see that at one time it was a paradise. It still holds a bit of magic. I wanted to capture a shot similar to the one I'd seen, but it didn't work out. I took a picture of the same reservoir of water, but only later realized it was from the opposite side. The shot I was wanting would have required a trip into an area that was being held by an army of monkeys. Had I known, I would gave found a way to get through, but it was too late when I figured it out. Still I will regret not getting that picture forever (may have to go again). We did take a lot of great photos anyway.
Those monkeys were a bit scary. One chased us when he saw we were afraid. All the Indians were just walking right past them with no problem. I think the monkeys know who to go after, just like cats know which person in the room to rub up against (the one with allergies). Or it could have been the apples we were carrying in a bag.
Tara has been a bit sick the whole time we've been here. I thought she would recover as fast as Uma and I, but it is taking longer for her. She missed a visit to the City Palace, but has made it out on our other day trips. It has been a struggle for her - she really just wants to lie in bed, but doesn't want to miss everything. I'm hoping tomorrow will be better for her.
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