Klingons, Scots and Rajputs

We are nearing the end of our time in Udaipur and it seems a good moment to reflect on our experience here. I think I also need to add a disclaimer, after rereading my previous blogs. Please understand I am typing on an iPhone keyboard with one finger (sometimes two thumbs), usually late at night, since that seems to be the only time I have to myself to think - and very tired. If I were at home I'd have edited and rewritten each post.

Udaipur is a gorgeous city, and quite different from Jaipur. The area we are staying in is right on the edge of Lake Pichola, which is the lake with the floating palaces (currently hotels). It is mountainous, and the roads are all very narrow (built for donkeys, cows and people), but there is a lot of traffic on them - mostly small rickshaws and scooters. It is extremely touristy. Everything within walking distance of the hotel is there to cater to visitors, not locals. So, we have money changers, hotels, tailors, restaurants with European 'cafes' (sorry, I can't type accents on my iPhone), and most importantly... way overpriced gift and clothing shops. It wore a little thin after about the second day. Which is probably why everyone who finds out we are staying for a week is surprised. It seems nobody stays in Udaipur that long.

However, we have finally located the markets that local people shop in. The main one is called Bapu Bazaar. And that has helped a lot on the money supply, as well as confirming our guess that we were being ripped off when buying stuff in the tourist market. Today we went to my favorite store so far, called Khadi Emporium (or something like that). They sell only Khadi cloth, and with nice designs and nicer prices. Ravi found a tea store, so we'll be heading home with 2 kilos of tea. If we had room in the suitcases it would be more. And we've found at least one restaurant that has consistently good food (called Ambrai), right on the water's edge - so fabulous views too.

We went on one day trip - to Chittorgarh - so far, and are heading to Kumbalgarh and Ranakpur tomorrow. Chittorgarh was impressive. It sits way up a mountain, and you can see the villages down below from it's walls. It is a fort which was held repeatedly by the people of Mewar (think: Rajput warriors), even though they lost control of it 3 times. Each of those times the men rode out to certain death in battle (knowing all was lost, but fighting to their deaths), while the women burned themselves to death (rather than be taken). Ravi compares them to Klingons - I think of the Scots. Honour in death, and all that. In the end, they chose to settle on the banks of Lake Pichola. Udaipur is now the kingdom's home (there are still royalty here). The palace is the largest in all of Rajasthan (possibly all of India?).

There was a particularly awesome photo of Chittorgarh that I had seen on Pinterest that made it look like a piece of paradise (I didn't know it was Chittorgarh until I researched it and was thrilled to know we'd be able to visit it). It did feel a bit like that - or, rather, it is possible to see that at one time it was a paradise. It still holds a bit of magic. I wanted to capture a shot similar to the one I'd seen, but it didn't work out. I took a picture of the same reservoir of water, but only later realized it was from the opposite side. The shot I was wanting would have required a trip into an area that was being held by an army of monkeys. Had I known, I would gave found a way to get through, but it was too late when I figured it out. Still I will regret not getting that picture forever (may have to go again). We did take a lot of great photos anyway.

Those monkeys were a bit scary. One chased us when he saw we were afraid. All the Indians were just walking right past them with no problem. I think the monkeys know who to go after, just like cats know which person in the room to rub up against (the one with allergies). Or it could have been the apples we were carrying in a bag.

Tara has been a bit sick the whole time we've been here. I thought she would recover as fast as Uma and I, but it is taking longer for her. She missed a visit to the City Palace, but has made it out on our other day trips. It has been a struggle for her - she really just wants to lie in bed, but doesn't want to miss everything. I'm hoping tomorrow will be better for her.

Barefoot on the Taj

Well, India seems to be wearing us out. Lots of home sickness here. At least the girls and I - Ravi is still gung ho about seeing everything we can. But then, he is the only one who hasn't been ill. It does affect your attitude when you've been stuck in a hotel room for a few days feeling absolutely wretched. Thankfully, Uma and I are almost back to normal and Tara is on the mend (it hit her last).

We are in Udaipur. To get here we hired a driver who was really great. He was cheerful, helpful with info and he had lots of experience on the highways (which is a whole other topic to explore) - the same driver we had for our long day trip to Agra. Did I blog about that yet? I may be getting behind.

So, I'll back up. We went to see the Taj Mahal, which is about a 4-5 hr journey from Jaipur. On the way we stopped in Fatepur Sikri, a ghost town of sorts. It was a village (with astonishingly intricate carvings, decorative red stone architecture...beautiful), which was abandoned in ancient times (I'm bad with dates) for unknown reasons. It was thought that they left because of a lack of water, but Ravi read that this has been denounced by scholars.

The Taj was, of course, breathtaking. But, also a bit of a let down, because the experience of it was ruined by the process of getting there. As a work of art, yes, it was worth seeing. And no doubt it deserves the hype. It's just that to see it we first had to run the gauntlet of "touts" who were...persistent is too nice of a description. One guy followed us from the entrance gate and would not give up on the idea that we really needed a guide (we didn't even realize how ridiculous this idea was until we got in to the Taj). We did all we could to brush him off - even accepting a camel cart ride from another tout just to get away. He jumped on the cart. He finally left when both Ravi and I were clearly angry, and Ravi told him "even if it were free we wouldn't hire you". As soon as we got off the cart there were more 'guides', but this time Ravi just asked them back, "what will you pay me to take you as a guide?". I think it caught them off guard, because we didn't have any long term followers again.

If you ever go, you DO NOT NEED a guide. The beauty of the structure lies in its simplicity and symmetry. There aren't a lot of rooms to discover or hidden places. The history of it can be read online in about 5 minutes. There is stream of people being herded through it by guards (even blowing whistles to control traffic). I imagine that any guide who gets hired probably tries to get money up front and disappears at the first opportunity.

The process of getting in is similar to airport security. No food (that one I don't get), no cell phones, bags and bodies checked and scanned. Separate lines for women and men (at least this is true in Indian airports - I can't tell you how much I resent this method, no matter what their justification for it). As we approached the Taj, there were signs for Indians to go one way and tourists ("non-Indians") to go another. We ignored this wondering why they would separate people this way. Taking the gender thing into ethnicity now?

At the ticket gate they had given us 2 sets of shoe covers - you have to either remove shoes or wear covers over them. We asked for 2 more for the kids, but because their admission was free, we would have to pay for them (same with the complimentary water bottles). After just getting past the touts we were highly sensitive to any hassle, and more than a little frustrated, so we decided Ravi and I would go barefoot and the kids could use the covers. We had a bag to put shoes in, so we didn't have to leave them anywhere. Great plan, right?

That's how we discovered the reason for the two lines of people. Indians, who would generally opt to go barefoot, had a carpet to walk on until they got into the cool interior of the Taj. Non-Indians, it was assumed, would choose to keep their shoes on. So, no carpet. Just REALLY hot marble. I walked first. Then sprinted. I think a few seconds more and I would have burnt the skin off my feet. Truly.

I wish I could have seen it all alone. At sunset. With no touts, or security, or whistles, or lines of people. I think in a situation like that it may have brought tears to my eyes, and a feeling of awe. Sometimes the most beautiful things are ruined by fame.

On the 'plus' side: we saw lots of monkeys on the way out. Kids loved that part.

We saw more things in Jaipur, which i wish i had time to blog about, and Ravi and the girls were lucky to explore some real gems, crowd-free. I missed the last two days, but they took lovely photos.

The photo I'm posting is in the car on the way to Agra. We had stopped in a touristy little restaurant/gift shop where Uma picked out a turban. No pics to post of the Taj since we didn't have the iPhone with us inside the grounds and no way to download the photos on my SLR camera.

Next up: Udaipur.

Found a Pearl

So, my hunch was right. Jaipur is a way better way to explore India.

We are staying at a fabulous hotel. Luxurious, really. It is newly built, but looks like it is an ancient palace that has been restored. It has a large bedroom, a sitting room, an alcove with computer (you sit on cushions to use it), a fabulously clean and modern washroom, a fridge, a/c, fans everywhere, a safe, a tv (although we won't use it), WIFI (albeit sketchy) and it is gorgeously decorated. Each room is a work of art - meant to represent a different region of Rajasthan. All this for about $45/night (tax included). It's called the Pearl Palace Heritage, and is the 'sister' hotel to the Hotel Pearl Palace - which is arguably the most popular hotel in Jaipur because of the beautiful rooftop restaurant, great prices and an owner that really cares about his guests' needs.

No restaurant in this hotel yet - they are building that part and have plans for a small cafe in the next few months followed by a full restaurant in about 3 years. But, we are about a five minute walk from the Pearl restaurant (I think it's called the Peacock Restaurant).

It is so beautiful here - the Pink City is truly pink. Flowers are blooming everywhere. At night we can smell jasmine. The architecture is elaborate and, again, beautiful (I need more adjectives). You get the picture, right?

So, I think the key to this city's success is less people. It is way easier to get around, walking or by vehicle. And I may be just imagining it (wearing my pearl coloured glasses), but people seem friendlier here.

Yes, I like Jaipur. I think I could live here quite happily.

And it is hot. It hit us full force when we stepped off the plane. I love it. I might not love it so much after being in it too long. So far we've just tucked in and out of cool buildings and haven't had to deal with any long outdoor excursions.

Uma and Tara both have had some minor tummy upsets. Seems like it may have just been some food that was a bit too spicy for them. Ravi and I are fine (knock on wood). I'm finding myself grateful for every solid poo.

Tomorrow we take care of some banking and small errands, then hit the MARKETS! I'm a wee excited about that part. This will be the first real shopping we've had a chance to do - the bartering type (there was one shop in Mumbai where I had a bit of a chance to argue the price, but I'm not counting it because the prices were so high that it wasn't that much fun).

After market time we'll check out some of the Old City and maybe hit the restaurant that our guide book says is one of the best in the city.

And the next day we are doing a day trip to the Taj. Mona Lisa: check. Eiffel Tower: check. Taj Mahal: check.

Don't let anyone tell you (as some told us) that a week in Jaipur is too long. We will barely fit in a few of the sites before we have to leave. A couple weeks would go by in no time.

I'm looking forward to more discoveries, and will share them as they come.

Mumbai Masala

After the first day in Mumbai I wrote a really negative blog. I am glad I sat on it a while before posting, although my impressions haven't changed drastically. I'm keeping some of that first post in this one and editing out the bits that were just a reaction to the sudden change. Paris to Mumbai is more than a little shocking.

It's totally crazy.

The extremes between rich and poor are immediately apparent. I saw some women with babies living under a highway overpass - it seems unbearable even to describe the conditions. I just caught a glimpse - I had to look away because it felt wrong to look at people so exposed. A violation. Not far away there are all the brand name stores: in sports shoes I saw Puma, Nike, Adidas, Reebok and Converse stores. And Guess, Diesel, and so many others were there too. We passed miles and miles of slums on the way from the airport. Right beside gleaming new glass tower office buildings. It's all mixed together.

Then there's the traffic. Cars, trucks, rickshaws, bicycles, motorcycles, scooters and pedestrians just move in this totally random (at least to my eyes), yet seemingly orchestrated motion. I know that sounds like a contradiction, but I don't know how else to describe it. It's a garbled teeming mess of movement, and yet, so it all moves so smoothly (and loudly - constant honking). Vehicles and people come within an inch of colliding, but don't. I saw only one small fender bender in these past few days. A miracle, is what it is.

We are staying with some really kind, down-to-earth, generous people, who also happen to be family (Ravi's cousin, her husband and kids). That part I am really thankful for as it makes the adjustment much easier. They have a beautiful apartment, which feels luxurious - especially when you look outside. It's located in a not-so-luxurious area. When inside it is really easy to forget I'm in India.

We are about to leave for Jaipur tomorrow. So we've been in Mumbai four days. Most of that time has been spent in a car. An air conditioned car with a driver. It's the first time in my life I've had a chauffeur. It is a great thing, 'cause I'm not exactly sure how we would get around otherwise. This part of the trip has been all about meeting family, eating and drinking tea. Lots of tea. But I'm really looking forward to getting the heck out of Mumbai. Onward to a place where I can learn to walk again.

I went out this evening with Ravi to the market that is closest to where we are staying. I was terrified, but it was a relief to be entering into the 'real' world around us, instead of the sheltered car/family one we've been in so far.

And, really excited about going shopping in Jaipur.

I will blog again at the next WIFI connection. Namaste.